My legs were burning, sweat poured down my face, and I questioned my life choices as I hauled myself up another broken wooden staircase – but the breathtaking views that awaited made every painful step worthwhile.
High above the jungle canopy of Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains lies a breathtaking secret that most tourists will never experience. Known locally as “Phnom Mrech Kongkeb” or more poetically as “Areng Heaven,” this natural viewpoint has become my favourite hidden gem after ten years exploring Southeast Asia. It’s the perfect antidote to the selfie-stick wielding crowds at Angkor Wat.
But getting to heaven, as they say, isn’t easy.
The Climb to Paradise
“It’s just over 3 kilometres to the top,” my local guide casually mentioned as we set off from the small village where I’d spent the night. What he failed to add was that those 3 kilometres would involve ducking under fallen trees, balancing on four decidedly dodgy wooden bridges, and hauling myself up countless uneven wooden staircases that creaked ominously with each step.
I’m hardly a novice when it comes to jungle trekking in Southeast Asia, but by the 40-minute mark, my shirt was completely soaked through, and I was silently cursing my decision to tackle this mountain in April, just before the rainy season. The heat and humidity were suffocating.
“Not much further now,” my guide grinned, looking frustratingly fresh as I panted behind him. He’d made this climb hundreds of times, ferrying the occasional adventurous tourist to the summit, and treated the steep incline like a casual stroll to the corner shop.
When we finally reached the summit, I collapsed onto a rock, gulping water and questioning whether any view could possibly be worth this ordeal. And then I looked up.
Standing atop the rocky outcrop, I was suddenly suspended above an endless sea of emerald green, with misty clouds swirling just above my head. In the distance, the undulating Cardamom Mountains stretched to the horizon. The early morning symphony of wildlife calls echoed across the canopy – birds I couldn’t name, monkeys chattering in the distance. I instantly understood why locals call this spot “Areng Heaven.”
Image courtesy of the Phnom Penh Post
However, this slice of paradise is finally getting some much-needed attention – and not a moment too soon.
Renovation Meets Conservation
On my descent, I counted at least three places where the wooden staircases were missing steps or had rotted through, and one bridge that swayed so alarmingly I considered turning back and finding another route down. My guide simply laughed at my nervousness and skipped across, leaving me to inch forward while gripping the dubious handrail with white knuckles.
“New bridges coming soon,” he told me later over lunch. “Government project for tourists.”
He was referring to the “Cambodia Sustainable Landscape and Ecotourism Project” (CSLEP), a World Bank-funded initiative that’s breathing new life into Cambodia’s natural attractions. While researching the area before my trip, I’d read about this project but hadn’t expected to see any evidence of it in such a remote location.
According to my guide, the renovation won’t stop at fixing the broken staircases and rickety bridges. They’re also planning to add proper signage (which would have been incredibly useful, as I took a wrong turn twice) and create rest stops along the route.
“Too many tourists too tired. Need place to sit,” he explained pragmatically. I couldn’t have agreed more – I’d have given anything for a proper bench at the halfway point rather than perching precariously on a fallen log.
Finding the Balance
What makes Phnom Mrech Kongkeb special isn’t just its spectacular views but its raw authenticity. This isn’t some manufactured tourist experience with concrete paths and souvenir stands. It’s challenging, occasionally frightening, and deeply rewarding – exactly the kind of adventure I seek out after a decade of exploring Southeast Asia’s increasingly commercialised hotspots.
I noticed a wooden safety railing at the summit’s most dramatic viewpoint that seemed oddly out of place against the wilderness backdrop. When I asked about it, my guide rolled his eyes.
“Some tourists want more safety, some tourists say it ruins photos,” he explained. “Cannot make everyone happy.”
The railing made for a less dramatic photo, I had to admit, but having seen how steep the drop was on the other side, I was quite happy it existed – even if it did somewhat spoil the “untouched wilderness” illusion.
And therein lies the eternal dilemma facing Cambodia’s blossoming eco-tourism scene: how do you make these incredible places accessible to visitors without sanitising the very wildness that makes them special? It’s a question I’ve seen playing out from Thailand’s once-pristine islands to Vietnam’s mountain retreats. Making a destination safer and more accessible inevitably changes its character.
Beyond the Mountain
After conquering Phnom Mrech Kongkeb, I spent three more days exploring Koh Kong province, quickly realizing that I’d barely scratched the surface of what this region has to offer. My homestay host in the Stung Areng community told me that to properly experience the area, I should plan to stay for at least two weeks next time.
“Most tourists rush,” he lamented over dinner. “Come one day, take photo, leave next day. Miss so much.”
He wasn’t exaggerating. In just my brief exploration, I discovered that Koh Kong boasts Cambodia’s longest coastline—257 kilometres of largely untouched beaches and pristine waters. I spent one magical afternoon kayaking through what I later learned is the largest mangrove forest in the entire ASEAN region, spotting monkeys and exotic birds as I paddled through the eerie silence.
What I loved most about this corner of Cambodia was the complete absence of the usual tourist infrastructure. No souvenir hawkers followed me, no tuk-tuk drivers pestered me for business, and the few other travellers I encountered were the adventurous sort who prefer dusty backroads to air-conditioned tour buses.
According to locals, the Thma Bang district where I was staying also houses ancient pottery sites and burial mounds that I didn’t have time to visit. Indigenous communities still practice traditional ways of life just a short distance from where I slept. I’ve already decided I’ll need to return – and next time with more than just a few days to spare.
The Road Less Travelled (For Now)
One thing that struck me throughout my trek was how clean the trail remained compared to many popular hiking spots I’ve visited in Thailand and Vietnam. The relatively low visitor numbers mean that waste management isn’t yet a pressing concern, though the toilet situation left much to be desired. Let’s just say I became very familiar with various bushes along the trail – something the renovation project will hopefully address with proper facilities.
Having spent time in Siem Reap both before and after the pandemic, I’ve noticed a subtle but promising shift in Cambodia’s tourism marketing. While the majestic temples of Angkor will always be the country’s crown jewels, there’s growing recognition of Cambodia’s natural wonders. The CSLEP project that’s renovating Phnom Mrech Kongkeb is part of this wider initiative to develop eco-tourism across the country.
During a conversation with a park ranger I met on my final day, I learned that the project covers an impressively vast area. It encompasses not just the Cardamom Mountains where I was hiking, but also Phnom Kulen National Park, Phnom Kravanh National Park, and various wildlife sanctuaries scattered throughout the country.
“Before COVID, Cambodia was only Angkor Wat for tourists,” he explained as we shared a cold Beer Lao watching the sunset. “Now we show them mountains, forests, animals. Better for everyone – more money comes to small communities, not just big companies in Siem Reap.”
I couldn’t agree more. Having trekked through Thailand when it was still relatively undiscovered in the early 90s, I’ve watched with dismay as over-tourism has transformed once-pristine spots into Instagram-friendly theme parks. Cambodia has a rare second chance to develop its natural tourism thoughtfully and sustainably.
When to Visit (And Survive the Experience)
If you’re planning to tackle Phnom Mrech Kongkeb yourself – and I highly recommend you do – aim for Cambodia’s dry season between November and February. I made the mistake of visiting in April, just before the rainy season kicks off, and nearly melted on the ascent. The paths become treacherously muddy during the wet months, and those rickety wooden bridges become even more terrifying when slippery.
For the full “Areng Heaven” experience, stay overnight in the village and start your climb at dawn. I set off at 5:30 am and reached the summit just as the morning mist was creating that magical sea of clouds effect that features in most photos of the mountain. By 10 am, the heat was becoming unbearable, and I was grateful to be making my descent.
As the planned renovations progress, this hidden gem will inevitably become more accessible. Part of me worries that easier access might bring the crowds and commercialization I’ve seen ruin other spectacular spots across Southeast Asia. But for now, Phnom Mrech Kongkeb remains a reward for those willing to endure a challenging climb – a little slice of heaven earned through sweat, determination, and a healthy dose of terror on those wooden bridges.
And honestly? That’s exactly how it should be.
My Hard-Earned Travel Tips:
- Don’t even think about attempting this in flip-flops – bring proper hiking boots with good ankle support
- I went through 3 litres of water on the ascent alone – pack more than you think you’ll need
- The mosquitoes here are the size of small birds – bathe in repellent before setting off
- Hire a local guide (around $15-20 for the day) – I’d have been hopelessly lost without mine
- The homestays in Stung Areng community are basic but comfortable at about $10 per night including dinner
- Bring a torch for early morning starts – the trail begins in darkness if you want to catch sunrise
- Make sure your camera is fully charged – you’ll be taking hundreds of photos at the summit
After a decade based in Bangkok, exploring every corner of Southeast Asia, my mission at Asia Unmasked is to go beyond the temples and beaches in guidebooks to find the authentic experiences and hidden treasures most tourists never see.
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