A Few Words From Me
There is a type of announcement I have come to distrust in this part of the world, the one that says something is not happening “for now”, because “for now” can mean a fortnight or a decade. Thailand’s departure tax is the latest to get that treatment, shelved by the finance minister while the public consultation is, as far as I can tell, still open, and I will relax about it when somebody formally withdraws it rather than when somebody says they probably won’t proceed. The 450-baht entry fee hasn’t gone anywhere either. Cambodia has called off the Phnom Penh Water Festival for a second year, with the provinces left to decide for themselves, which is worth knowing if you had November pencilled in. On a happier note, Penang has landed on National Geographic’s Best of the World list for 2027, and I am in no position to argue with a list that puts hawker food at the front of the queue. Park Hyatt Phu Quoc has moved its opening forward to December, so check the date before you book anything. I’m in Khao Lak at the moment, and with Phuket flooded again it doesn’t feel like it, but the rains are easing across most of mainland Southeast Asia and the cooler months are on their way, which makes this a good moment to be planning. As always, tell me what you are seeing on the ground, and about any developments you think deserve coverage.
This Week in Southeast Asia
Thailand Shelves Its 1,000-Baht Departure Tax, but for How Long?
Thailand’s finance minister has said the ministry “probably will not proceed with it for now”, referring to the departure tax. He said the government wants tourism to keep moving forward. The draft allowed a charge of up to 5,000 baht (about US$149 or £111) per departure, with the 1,000 baht (about US$30 or £22) we covered in Issue 29 the figure discussed in public. No restart date has been given.
The Revenue Department’s consultation was due to run to 29 October, and the report does not say whether it has stopped. The separate 450-baht tourist entry fee (about US$13 or £10) has not been cancelled either, and the 1,120-baht airport charge (about US$33 or £25) has applied since 20 June, as Issue 13 reported.
For travellers, nothing changes at the airport today. If you are booking a flight out of Thailand, check the fare breakdown for airport charges.
National Geographic Puts Penang on Its Best of the World 2027 List
Chew Jetty in George Town: stilt houses, sea air and a fair few cameras.
Penang has made National Geographic’s Best of the World 2027 list, headlined as Asia’s most exciting emerging region. The pitch is food, street art and heritage on one island. George Town’s UNESCO-listed streets, the clan jetties built over the water and the funicular up Penang Hill all feature, along with a rainforest canopy walk and eco-guided river cruises. “Emerging” is a generous word for a city that has been on the tourist trail for a while, but I’m not going to quarrel with the attention.
October is typically the wettest month in Penang, while March to May and September to November are quieter than the busy December to February stretch. Chinese New Year and Diwali bring crowds and higher prices. In George Town, the free Central Area Transit shuttle, Rapid Penang buses and Grab cover most routes. Anyone waiting for the Penang Hill cable car will need patience, as National Geographic lists it as coming in 2027. For the wider picture, our earlier look at Malaysia as a destination is a good companion read.
Park Hyatt Phu Quoc Now Accepts Guests From 18 December 2026
Hyatt now expects Park Hyatt Phu Quoc to open in December 2026 and is taking reservations for arrivals from 18 December, according to its release of 20 October. That is earlier than the 1 March 2027 start we reported in Issue 27, which matched trade reports at the time. The release does not say whether the opening is phased, so confirm the date with the hotel before you book flights.
The resort has 114 rooms and suites, 54 pool villas and The Manor, an eight-bedroom private residence for multigenerational stays. It sits about 25 minutes from Phu Quoc International Airport. Hyatt gives no rates and lists no sustainability measures, so I cannot tell you how green it will be. When you contact the reservations team, ask what it does about energy, water and waste, and whether it has any certification you can check.
Phnom Penh Cancels Its Water Festival for a Second Year Running
Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace faces the riverfront where the Water Festival is normally held in November.
Cambodia has cancelled the Phnom Penh celebrations of the Water Festival, Bon Om Touk, planned for 23 to 25 November, for the second year running. A circular dated 25 June from Prime Minister Hun Manet, reported by Cambodianess on 1 July, cites the border situation, the wellbeing of displaced people and other national priorities. The events would normally take place along the Tonle Sap River in front of the Royal Palace.
Provinces may still hold their own celebrations in line with local traditions, depending on each province’s capacity, and the public holiday stays. If your trip was built around the capital’s riverfront on those dates, plan something else, and ask your hotel what is happening locally before you commit to a province. A base outside the capital can work well in a quieter month, and our Siem Reap guide is a sensible place to start.
What’s On
This Week
Bangkok Art Biennale, Bangkok, Thailand | 29 October 2026 to 28 February 2027
The fifth edition spreads contemporary art across the city under the theme Angels & Mara, with works at temples including Wat Arun, Wat Pho and Wat Prayoon, as well as Museum Siam and the National Museum Bangkok. Details are on the Tourism Authority of Thailand site.
Wat Banthat Thong Festival, Bangkok, Thailand | 26 October to 1 November 2026
A temple fair with a “Pacha Taek” theme, set up near Chulalongkorn University Centenary Park on Banthat Thong Road, for anyone who prefers a fair to a gallery. It is listed in the TAT October calendar.
Cultural Exchange Festival, Melaka, Malaysia | 31 October to 2 November 2026
A three-day programme on Malaysian and ASEAN heritage opens with a ceremony and parade on 31 October at Banda Hilir, with activities at the People’s Museum and the Malacca Malay Sultanate Palace Museum. Bernama reported the programme in September, so check the schedule before you travel.
Coming Up
That Luang Festival and Trade Fair, Vientiane, Laos | 21 to 24 November 2026
Candlelit processions, alms-giving to monks, fireworks and a trade fair gather around the Pha That Luang stupa, with processions starting at Vat Simeuang. The Lao tourism events listing has the dates.
Loy Krathong, Thailand | 24 November 2026
People float small banana-leaf krathong, each with a candle, incense and a wish, on rivers, canals and ponds after dark, and Chiang Mai’s Yi Peng lantern festival runs on 24 and 25 November. See the Thai Holiday Guide for dates and where to go.
Worth Reading
With the capital’s festival off the calendar again, our August opinion piece on whether Siem Reap should keep courting visitors with discounts is a useful read on how Cambodia is trying to win tourists back: Siem Reap Needs Tourists Now. Is It Fair to Ask the City to Wait for the Right Ones?
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