Explore the most underrated destination in Southeast Asia, where ancient wonders, pristine beaches and warm smiles await beyond the tourist trail
Cambodia has long lived in the shadow of its more visited neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam, yet this remarkable country offers some of Southeast Asia’s most compelling experiences—from the majestic temples of Angkor to some of the region’s most unspoiled beaches. Having spent years exploring this captivating kingdom, I’ve discovered that Cambodia’s relative obscurity is perhaps its greatest asset, offering authentic experiences increasingly rare in more developed destinations.
With just five million international visitors annually (compared to Thailand’s 28 million and Vietnam’s 12.6 million), Cambodia remains Southeast Asia’s hidden gem. The country’s understated profile means you’ll encounter fewer crowds at magnificent UNESCO sites, find genuine connections with locals, and discover pristine island beaches that feel like Thailand did decades ago—all at a fraction of the cost.
My most recent journey through Cambodia revealed a nation rapidly evolving yet still maintaining its distinct charm and authenticity. From the ancient stone temples of Siem Reap to the chaotic energy of Phnom Penh and the paradise islands off the southern coast, I found a country offering extraordinary diversity in a relatively compact area.
Angkor Wat offers one of travel’s most magical moments, yet ranks as the world’s most underrated landmark according to a recent study.
Cambodia’s Magnificent Temples: Beyond the Postcard Views
According to a recent study by Capital One UK, Angkor Wat ranks as the world’s most underrated landmark, with 60 percent of visitors saying it exceeded their expectations. After multiple visits over the years, I understand why—no photograph can truly capture the overwhelming scale and intricate detail of this 12th-century masterpiece, which stretches across an astonishing 400 square kilometres.
My first glimpse of Angkor Wat’s iconic spires reflecting in its lotus ponds at sunrise remains one of my most cherished travel memories. Yet what continues to fascinate me about the Angkor Archaeological Park is how much lies beyond the main temple complex. With a knowledgeable guide like Saravy “Ravi” Sor, you can escape the crowds at lesser-known temples where massive tree roots strangle ancient stones, creating scenes straight from an adventure film.
During my recent visit, I spent a refreshing morning cycling along Angkor Wat’s eastern banks, where Ravi showed us hidden 10th-century temples like Banteay Srei that most visitors never see. We paused at monasteries for traditional water blessing ceremonies (srouch tec), where I received a memorably frigid dousing from smiling monks that felt particularly welcome in Cambodia’s tropical heat.
What makes these experiences particularly poignant is understanding Cambodia’s complex history. As my guide in Siem Reap, explained his personal journey—losing relatives during the Khmer Rouge genocide and growing up in poverty while “dreaming of travelling the world”—I gained a deeper appreciation for Cambodia’s remarkable resilience.
“Our tourism industry is being driven by a new generation who are proud of their country and are excited to show it to the world,” he told me as we drove through Siem Reap, a city that feels surprisingly green and peaceful despite being the gateway to the country’s busiest attraction.
The 10th-century Banteay Srei temple features some of the most intricate stone carvings in the Angkor region, yet remains overlooked by many visitors.
Phnom Penh: Chaotic Energy and Profound History
From Siem Reap’s relative tranquility, a short 50-minute flight brings you to Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s frenetic capital—a city that assaults the senses in the most captivating way. Where Siem Reap is predominantly green, Phnom Penh is a concrete-packed metropolis pulsing with life.
From the moment I arrived, I was obsessed with the city’s beautiful chaos. Colourful street markets overflow with exotic produce, tuk-tuks weave through traffic with hair-raising precision, and families somehow balance four or five members on a single motorbike. The contrast between the gleaming gold-roofed Royal Palace and the surrounding urban sprawl perfectly captures Cambodia’s blend of ancient tradition and rapid modernisation.
Between visits to the National Museum (entrance £8) and the spectacular Royal Palace (entrance £8), I found myself gripping the sides of tuk-tuks as we zipped through the city. Unlike Thailand, where the baht reigns supreme, Cambodia operates on an unusual dual-currency system where US dollars are widely accepted alongside the local riel—making it one of the few places where you can pay for a $1 tuk-tuk ride with an American bill.
Phnom Penh also provides essential context for understanding modern Cambodia through its sobering historical sites. With my guide I visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek killing fields (entrance to each £4). These harrowing yet necessary sites confront visitors with the unimaginable brutality of Pol Pot’s regime, which murdered approximately two million Cambodians—nearly a quarter of the population—between 1975 and 1979.
What struck me most powerfully about Phnom Penh, however, was the remarkable spirit of its people. Despite its traumatic past, Cambodia’s population—two-thirds of whom are under 30 because so many of the older generation were killed during the genocide—radiates youthful optimism. When I mentioned this to my guide, he simply grinned and shrugged: “We just keep smiling.”
This resilience manifests in Phnom Penh’s vibrant food scene, from bustling street markets to trendy cafés and bars popping up in neighbourhoods like Bassac Lane, where I discovered The Library—a delightfully tiny, bookshelf-lined bar serving creative cocktails for just £4.
Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace stands in striking contrast to the chaotic urban sprawl surrounding it.
Cambodia’s Island Paradises: Southeast Asia’s Last Secret Beaches
While Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh feature on most Cambodia itineraries, it was the country’s islands and beaches that truly captivated me. Despite having just 275 miles of coastline (compared to Thailand’s 2,000 miles), Cambodia hides some of Southeast Asia’s most spectacular beaches—minus the crowds and commercialisation that have transformed many of Thailand’s islands.
The southern port city of Sihanoukville serves as the gateway to these island gems, and accessibility has improved dramatically with the 2022 opening of a Chinese-funded expressway cutting the drive time from Phnom Penh from six hours to just three. From Sihanoukville, speedboats whisk visitors to a constellation of paradise islands that remain blissfully under-developed.
My most memorable island experience came during an excursion to Koh Ta Kiev from the Six Senses Krabey Island resort. After emerging from a hike through dense mangrove jungle, our guide led us onto a stretch of sand fittingly named Long Beach. The scene before us was postcard-perfect: inconceivably clear sea, sand so fine it squeaked underfoot, and not another soul in sight.
“Can you hear that?” he asked, stopping in his tracks. Beyond the gentle lapping of waves and distant birdsong, I heard only my own laboured breathing after the jungle trek. Then he pointed skyward, and I caught it: the distant growl of thunder. “It’s a rainstorm,” he explained, quickly adding, “Don’t worry. It’s on the other side of the island. Nowhere near us!”
As promised, the distant tempest stayed away, leaving us to enjoy this Robinson Crusoe fantasy in peace. While I was experiencing Koh Ta Kiev as part of a guided excursion from a luxury resort, the island itself remains largely undeveloped, with just a handful of rustic bungalow operations catering to more adventurous travellers.
The pristine beaches of Koh Ta Kiev remain largely untouched, offering a genuine Robinson Crusoe experience just off Cambodia’s southern coast.
Koh Rong: Cambodia’s Crown Jewel Beach Destination
For a more developed yet still blissfully laid-back island experience, I spent several days on Koh Rong, Cambodia’s second-largest island. As our ferry approached the wooden jetty extending from the western coast, I couldn’t suppress a squeal of delight at the scene unfolding before me: sugar-white sand, coconut trees, and turquoise water, all set against a lush jungle backdrop.
Koh Rong offers a fascinating study in development stages, with different beaches providing vastly different experiences. The island’s eastern side, particularly around Koh Touch village, has evolved into something of a backpacker hub with affordable accommodations, beachfront restaurants, and lively bars. Yet just a short boat ride away, you’ll find beaches so pristine and undeveloped they could feature in a luxury travel magazine.
I based myself at the Royal Sands on the island’s west coast, where creamy white, thatched-roof villas offer a Maldives vibe for around £250 per night. With its 400-metre private beach, excellent restaurant, and glorious infinity pool, the resort provided the perfect balance of comfort and natural beauty.
What makes Koh Rong particularly special is the diversity of its beaches, each with its own distinct character:
Long Beach (Sok San) stretches for 7km along the island’s western shore, featuring powder-white sand and crystal-clear waters. Once only accessible by boat, a new road now connects it to other parts of the island. The beach gained international recognition as a filming location for the reality show Survivor, though today’s visitors won’t need to compete for resources—unless you count securing the best sunbathing spot.
Lonely Beach, tucked away at the northern tip of Koh Rong, lives up to its name with splendid isolation. Accessible only by boat or a challenging jungle trek, this golden crescent of sand backed by dense forest offers a genuine escape for those willing to make the journey.
Long Set Beach (4K Beach) on the island’s eastern side has seen more development in recent years but maintains its natural beauty with squeaky white sand and shallow turquoise waters perfect for swimming. The beach is just remote enough to avoid crowds while offering sufficient amenities for comfort.
Beyond sunbathing, Koh Rong offers plenty to keep more active visitors engaged. Inland hiking trails lead to hidden waterfalls, while PADI-certified dive centres provide access to vibrant coral formations where you might spot colourful tropical fish, stingrays, and green sea turtles. One of the island’s most magical experiences comes after dark, when swimming in certain bays reveals bioluminescent plankton that illuminate the water with an ethereal blue glow.
Long Beach on Koh Rong stretches for seven kilometres of pristine white sand, offering ample space even during peak season. Image suggestion: A panoramic view of Long Beach showing its vast expanse of white sand against turquoise waters, with a few palms for scale.
Koh Rong Sanloem: The Quieter Alternative
Just a short boat ride south of Koh Rong lies its smaller sister island, Koh Rong Sanloem. With no major roads and limited development, this island maintains an even more laid-back atmosphere. While I didn’t have time to visit during my most recent trip, previous explorations revealed some of Cambodia’s most picturesque beaches.
Saracen Bay on the eastern side serves as the main arrival point, with a 2.5-kilometre crescent of blindingly white sand and extraordinarily clear water. A collection of mid-range resorts has sprung up along this beach in recent years, though development remains tasteful and low-density compared to similar beaches in Thailand.
Lazy Beach on the western side requires either a boat trip or a 40-minute jungle trek from Saracen Bay—effort that rewards visitors with what might be Cambodia’s most perfect beach. Nestled in a sheltered cove, its golden-vanilla sand creates a warmer, more intimate atmosphere than the bright white shores found elsewhere. The single resort here operates with an eco-conscious approach that complements rather than competes with the natural environment.
For those with more time, Koh Rong Sanloem provides easy access to even more remote islands like the uninhabited Koh Tang, where day trips offer spectacular diving and snorkelling opportunities in virtually untouched marine environments.
Lazy Beach on Koh Rong Sanloem requires effort to reach but rewards visitors with one of Cambodia’s most perfect stretches of sand.
Getting Around Cambodia: A Practical Guide
Getting between Cambodia’s highlights has become increasingly straightforward, though journeys still tend to be more affordable than quick. My recent trip revealed significant improvements to infrastructure compared to visits just a few years ago.
By Air: For travellers with limited time, domestic flights connect Cambodia’s three main airports—Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville—with journey times of less than an hour. Airlines like Cambodia Airways and Cambodia Angkor Air offer reliable service, though it’s worth booking well in advance for the best fares.
By Road: Most travellers get around Cambodia by bus or minivan, with comfortable air-conditioned coaches connecting major cities. The journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap takes approximately 6 hours, while the trip from the capital to Sihanoukville has been cut to 3 hours thanks to the new expressway. Express minivans are faster but occasionally hair-raising, as some drivers seem determined to set new land-speed records on Cambodia’s improving highway network.
By Boat: While boat travel is less common than it once was, speedboats remain the primary method for reaching Cambodia’s islands from Sihanoukville. Fast catamarans make the journey to Koh Rong in about 45 minutes, though smaller islands may require chartered boats or longer journeys.
Around Towns and Sites: In urban areas, tuk-tuks provide the most pleasant way to travel, with rides starting from just $1-2. Cambodia offers two main types: the traditional remork-moto (a trailer attached to a motorcycle) and newer Indian-style auto-rickshaws. For exploring temple complexes, hiring a remork-moto for the day offers the perfect balance of convenience and cooling breezes.
For adventurous travellers, renting a motorcycle presents an unparalleled way to experience Cambodia’s magnificent countryside. Having explored portions of the country on two wheels, I can attest to the sense of freedom this provides—though riders should stick to paved roads due to landmine risks in remote areas, and inexperienced riders should avoid Phnom Penh’s intimidating traffic.
Traditional remork-moto tuk-tuks provide a breezy, comfortable way to explore Cambodia’s towns and temple complexes.
Where to Stay: Cambodian Hospitality Across Budgets
One of Cambodia’s greatest strengths is offering exceptional value across all price points, from backpacker hostels to world-class resorts.
In Siem Reap, I discovered the delightful Jaya House River Park, a 36-room boutique hotel backing onto the river in a quiet location just five minutes from the town centre. At around £167 per night, it offers luxury-level amenities—including two pools, daily laundry service, and complimentary hour-long massages—for mid-range prices. The property feels like a luxury cabin in a tropical rainforest, with trees throughout the grounds and exceptionally attentive service.
Phnom Penh offers a fascinating contrast between heritage properties and ultra-modern hotels. I split my time between the historic Raffles Le Royal—a palatial cream and terracotta property dating from the colonial era (from £215)—and the sleek Rosewood, which opened in 2018 with panoramic views over the cityscape and Mekong River from its rooftop sky bar (from £350).
On Koh Rong, accommodations range from backpacker-friendly beach bungalows to the Maldives-esque Royal Sands. Budget travellers should check out places like the Secret Garden (from £87) or You&Me Resort (from £94), both offering beachfront locations for remarkably affordable prices.
For true luxury, Six Senses Krabey Island (from £633) occupies its own 30-acre private island just off the coast. With 40 villas featuring private plunge pools and a world-class spa, it provides an ultra-premium experience while maintaining a commitment to sustainability and connecting guests with local culture through excursions to neighbouring islands.
Six Senses Krabey Island offers luxury villas with private pools on its own exclusive island just off Cambodia’s southern coast.
When to Visit Cambodia
Cambodia experiences two distinct seasons: the dry season (November to April) and the wet season (May to October). Most visitors opt for the dry season, particularly November to February when temperatures are more moderate. March and April can be intensely hot, with temperatures regularly exceeding 35°C.
The wet season brings lush green landscapes and fewer tourists, with rain typically falling in short, intense afternoon downpours rather than all-day drizzle. This can actually be an excellent time to visit Angkor Wat, as the moats and reservoirs fill with water, creating stunning reflections of the temples. However, some remote areas and islands may have limited access during the peak of the wet season.
Final Reflections: Cambodia’s Unforgettable Spirit
What makes Cambodia truly unforgettable isn’t just its magnificent temples or pristine beaches—it’s the remarkable spirit of its people. Despite enduring one of history’s most brutal genocides within living memory, Cambodians display an indomitable optimism and warmth that leaves a lasting impression on visitors.
As my guide in Phnom Penh put it with his characteristic grin: “We just keep smiling.” This simple statement encapsulates what makes Cambodia so special. The country’s youthful population—two-thirds of Cambodians are under 30 due to the genocide’s devastating demographic impact—brings energetic optimism to everything from bustling city markets to isolated island communities.
While Cambodia may be overshadowed by its more famous neighbours in terms of visitor numbers, those who venture here discover a country offering extraordinary diversity, authentic experiences, and remarkable value. From the world’s most underrated landmark at Angkor Wat to pristine islands that feel like Thailand did decades ago, Cambodia rewards travellers willing to look beyond the obvious.
As development accelerates and new infrastructure makes the country increasingly accessible, now is the perfect time to experience Cambodia’s magic before the secret gets out. Whether you’re wandering among ancient temples at dawn, navigating Phnom Penh’s chaotic energy, or lounging on a pristine beach with not another soul in sight, Cambodia offers the increasingly rare gift of genuine discovery.
