Discover the wild beauty and laid-back luxury of Thailand’s second-largest island, where emerald jungles meet crystal waters far from the madding crowds
For those seeking a Thai island experience without the wall-to-wall development and tourist throngs of Phuket or Koh Samui, Koh Chang offers a refreshing alternative. Situated in the eastern Gulf of Thailand near the Cambodian border, this mountainous gem combines pristine rainforests with idyllic beaches, creating a destination that strikes that increasingly rare balance between accessibility and untouched natural beauty.
The mountainous jungle interior of Koh Chang rises dramatically above its pristine beaches.
Island Overview: Thailand’s Magnificent Wild Child
Named “Elephant Island” either for its elephant-shaped headland or the pachyderm-like appearance of its mountain range (depending on who you ask), Koh Chang is Thailand’s second-largest island after Phuket. Despite its size and beauty, it has somehow managed to fly under the mass tourism radar, making it a treasure for travellers seeking authenticity without sacrificing comfort.
Part of the Mu Ko Chang National Marine Park established in 1982, approximately 70% of the island is covered in untouched rainforest. Steep mountains run from north to south, creating a dramatic backdrop to the beaches that ring the coastline and providing homes for diverse wildlife including hornbills, monkeys, and an impressive array of tropical birds.
My first journey to Koh Chang came over a decade ago, and I’ve been returning periodically ever since. Each visit reveals subtle changes while the island’s essential character – wild, mountainous, and refreshingly undeveloped – remains intact. My most recent trip in February 2025 marked my first time back since the pandemic, and I was curious to see how this often-overlooked gem had weathered the global tourism shutdown.
Koh Chang has always struggled to attract the tourist numbers that flock to Thailand’s more aggressively marketed islands, and historically, this has been no bad thing. The island’s National Park status continues to protect it from over-development, preserving a tranquility that’s increasingly rare in Thailand’s popular coastal destinations. As I stepped off the ferry and breathed in the familiar scent of sea air mingled with tropical vegetation, I felt that same sense of escape I’d experienced on my very first visit.
Your Koh Chang adventure begins with a scenic ferry crossing from the mainland.
A Brief History: From Backwater to Blossoming Destination
Until the late 1990s, Koh Chang remained largely undeveloped, visited primarily by backpackers willing to rough it for the sake of pristine beaches and unspoiled nature. Basic bamboo bungalows and limited electricity were the norm rather than the exception.
This began to change when the Thai government designated Koh Chang as part of a development initiative for the eastern seaboard in the early 2000s. Infrastructure improved dramatically, and resorts began to appear along the western beaches. However, unlike the unchecked development seen on some Thai islands, Koh Chang’s status as a national park has helped preserve much of its natural character.
The island today offers a fascinating blend of development and wilderness. While you’ll find luxurious resorts and international restaurants, you’re never far from nature – whether it’s a troop of macaques crossing the road or the impenetrable wall of jungle rising behind your resort.
Getting There and Around
Most visitors reach Koh Chang via ferry from the mainland pier at Ao Thammachat. Sadly the Centerpoint Ferry near Trat ceased operating in July 2024 – unable to keep sailing having been closed by the pandemic laws for most of 2 years. If you’re coming from Bangkok, you can either drive (approximately 5 hours), take a bus from the Eastern Bus Terminal in Ekamai directly to the ferry. Alternatively you can bus it to Trat, or fly to Trat Airport with Bangkok Airways, and then connect to the ferry via minivan or taxi.
I was lucky to have a couple of mates from Australia over, and I met them in Pattaya where they’d hired a car in Bangkok and drove, which offered the directness we needed to make good time, while having a vehicle for exploring the island. The ferries run hourly during daylight hours and take about 30 minutes to reach the island, with vehicles charged separately from passengers.
Once on Koh Chang, transportation options include:
- Motorbike rental: The most popular and flexible way to explore, typically costing 200-300 baht per day. Be warned, though, that some of the island’s roads are extremely steep and accidents are unfortunately common. Insurance rarely covers motorbike accidents in Thailand, so caution is essential.
- Songthaews: These converted pickup trucks serve as shared taxis until the early hours or as demand dictates, running between the main beaches on the west coast. Expect to pay about 50-100 baht per person depending on distance.
- Car rental: Limited options exist on the island, but if you didn’t bring your own, you can rent one for about 1,200-1,500 baht per day.
- Walking: Some beaches and attractions are connected by paths over the small peninsulas that separate them, but the tropical heat makes long walks challenging.
A word of caution: if you’ve never ridden a motorbike before, Koh Chang with its steep, winding roads is NOT the place to learn. I’ve witnessed far too many tourists covered in “Koh Chang tattoos”, and worse, to recommend this lightly.
Beaches: A Shore for Every Taste
Koh Chang’s coastline offers a variety of beaches, each with its own distinct character. Most development is concentrated on the western shore, while the east remains largely wild and undeveloped.
Having visited Koh Chang for over a decade now, I’ve witnessed the island’s evolution—though “evolution” might be too strong a word for the measured pace of change here. In years gone by, White Sand Beach used to attract the bulk of tourists with its array of accommodation, restaurants, and bars, while younger solo travellers and backpackers headed for the isolated Lonely Beach for its reputation as a 24-hour party zone.
On my recent return visit in February, it became clear that a significant shift had occurred. Local expats told me there had been a concerted effort to relocate the nightlife from White Sand Beach and Lonely Beach, centralising it in Kai Bae. This strategic move seems to have paid off, creating a more focused entertainment district while allowing other areas to maintain their distinct atmospheres.
There’s a long-standing joke that the most popular name for a restaurant or bar in Koh Chang is “For Rent,” as the island has historically struggled to attract sufficient tourist numbers to sustain businesses year-round. However, returning post-pandemic, I found the island surprisingly full, with every affordable resort having sold its entire allocation of rooms. In my decade of visits, this was the first time I’d seen Koh Chang at capacity—a promising sign for local businesses that had weathered the storm of the global tourism shutdown.
White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao) remains the most developed area and the first major beach you’ll reach when coming from the ferry piers. As the name suggests, it features a beautiful stretch of pale sand and clear water. This is where you’ll find the largest concentration of restaurants, shops, fast food and convenience stores. The northern end and eastern coastline tend to be quieter, while the central and southern portions bustle with activity. While still popular, it seems slightly less dominated by nightlife than in previous years.
Klong Prao Beach stretches along a curving bay intersected by two estuaries. It offers a more relaxed atmosphere than White Sand Beach while still providing plenty of amenities. This is where many of the island’s luxury resorts are located, taking advantage of the long, beautiful beach and stunning sunset views. A word of caution, the sandflies are notorious here. Always use local repellents and don’t rely on the stuff you can buy at home.
Kai Bae Beach has a village-like atmosphere with a good selection of mid-range accommodations and restaurants arranged along a single road parallel to the beach. The offshore islands create a picturesque backdrop for swimming and sunbathing. Prior to the pandemic, it was a popular area for the island’s expats, with a handful of western restaurants struggling for business. Returning here in 2025 and I was taken aback by how this area had grown and how busy it was. And how I regret not taking a lease on a restaurant I was offered during the Covid closure.
The uncrowded Kai Bae beach is perfect for sunset strolls.
Lonely Beach certainly isn’t lonely anymore but retains something of its bohemian backpacker roots. This is where you’ll find the island’s budget traveller scene, with beachfront bars hosting fire shows and playing music into the night. Accommodation ranges from basic bungalows to more comfortable resorts.
Bailan Bay offers a quieter alternative to Lonely Beach just to the south, with a rocky coastline interspersed with small sandy beaches.
Bang Bao on the island’s southwestern peninsula was traditionally a fishing village built on stilts over the water. While still functioning as a harbour, it has become increasingly tourist-oriented, with the pier converted into a walking street lined with seafood restaurants and souvenir shops. It’s also the departure point for many snorkelling and diving trips.
Klong Kloi is just a little further on from the touristy Bang Bao, and offers a quiet retreat with accommodation ranging from budget-style chalets and upmarket teak wood resorts. I find this place great for relaxing and unwinding and doing very little else.
Water Activities
The clear waters around Koh Chang are perfect for snorkelling and diving, with visibility often exceeding 20 meters during the dry season. The islands of Koh Rang, Koh Wai, and several other spots within the marine park offer colourful coral reefs accessible to snorkelers of all experience levels.
Several dive operators on the island offer PADI courses and guided dives to sites featuring coral gardens, underwater rock formations, and abundant marine life. While perhaps not as spectacular as some of Thailand’s Andaman Sea dive sites, the Gulf waters around Koh Chang offer pleasant, accessible diving with a good chance of spotting seahorses, stingrays, and the occasional reef shark.
Kayaking provides another excellent way to explore the coastline, with rentals available on most beaches. The mangrove forests on the east coast are particularly interesting to explore by kayak, offering a glimpse into these crucial coastal ecosystems.
On my latest visit, I divided my time between the convenient amenities of White Sand Beach and the more laid-back atmosphere of Klong Prao, which provided the perfect balance of comfort and tranquility.
Luxury Accommodations: Island Elegance
While Koh Chang offers plenty of budget and mid-range options, its luxury resorts provide a level of comfort and elegance that rivals Thailand’s more famous islands, often at more reasonable prices. Here are some of the finest places to stay:
The Emerald Cove Koh Chang Hotel
Nestled on a pristine stretch of Klong Prao Beach, The Emerald Cove has reopened after the pandemic under the stewardship of the IHG brand. Twinned with Dinso Resort & Villas Koh Chang Vignette Collection these are perhaps the island’s most impressive five-star resorts. The resort offers 168 rooms and villas with modern Thai design elements, most featuring balconies overlooking either the pool or the sea.
During my stay, I was particularly impressed by the beachfront location—step out of the pool and you’re just meters from the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. The breakfast buffet deserves special mention, offering an impressive spread of international and Thai options that kept me lingering far longer than I’d planned each morning.
Dinso Resort & Villas offers luxury beachfront accommodation with an impressive swimming pool.
Santhiya Tree Koh Chang Resort
For those seeking a more traditional Thai luxury experience, Santhiya Tree delivers with its stunning wooden architecture and careful attention to cultural details. Located on Klong Prao Beach, the resort is designed to resemble a traditional Thai village, albeit one with all modern conveniences.
The private pool villas are the highlight here, offering secluded luxury amid lush tropical gardens. The carved wooden detailing throughout the property is truly astonishing, reflecting Thailand’s rich architectural heritage while providing a distinctive sense of place that generic luxury hotels often lack.
KC Grande Resort & Spa
Occupying a prime position on White Sands Beach, KC Grande offers convenience and luxury in equal measure. The hillside and beachfront locations provide different experiences, with the hillside rooms offering spectacular views and the beachfront section providing immediate access to the island’s most popular beach.
The resort features several swimming pools, including a beachfront infinity pool that seems to merge with the ocean beyond. For those who want to be in the heart of the action while still enjoying upscale amenities, KC Grande strikes an excellent balance.
Gajapuri Resort & Spa
This boutique luxury resort on Kai Bae Beach offers a more intimate experience, with beautifully crafted wooden villas set among tropical gardens. The private pool villas provide seclusion and luxury, while the beachfront location ensures you’re never far from the sea.
What impresses me most about Gajapuri is its successful integration of traditional Thai design elements with modern comfort. The resort feels authentic and connected to its cultural context while providing all the amenities international travellers expect.
Parama Resort Koh Chang
Perched dramatically on a cliff near Kai Bae, Parama Resort offers some of the most spectacular views on the island. The modern, minimalist design makes the most of the location, with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the sea and sky.
The infinity pool here deserves special mention—swimming at its edge feels like floating above the Gulf of Thailand. While not directly on a beach, the panoramic vistas more than compensate, especially at sunset when the sky erupts in a spectacular light show over the water.
Activities: Beyond the Beach
While it’s tempting to simply relax on Koh Chang’s beautiful beaches, the island offers plenty of activities for more energetic visitors.
Jungle Trekking and Waterfalls
The mountainous interior is crisscrossed with hiking trails leading to picturesque waterfalls. Klong Plu is the most accessible, located just a short walk from the main road through Klong Prao. During the wet season, it creates an impressive cascade and swimming hole, though it becomes less dramatic during the dry months.
For more adventurous hikers, Than Mayom and Klong Nonsi waterfalls offer more challenging treks and fewer crowds. Hiring a local guide is recommended, as trails can be difficult to follow and the dense jungle makes it easy to get turned around.
On my last visit, I hired a guide for a half-day trek to Klong Nonsi, and the experience of swimming in a pristine forest pool with only the sounds of nature around me was well worth the sweaty hike to get there.
East Coast
Almost all visitors to Koh Chang turn right from the ferry terminal and find a spot on the west coast, and as there isn’t a connecting road built at the very south of Koh Chang, people don’t tend to move far. That would do the island a disservice. The road heading north from the ferry terminal drops down the east coast of Koh Chang and is worth a day trip away from the beach. You’ll pass Thai villages, temples and rubber plantations until you arrive at the deserted Long Beach. It’s a pleasant motorbike ride where you’ll escape the tourist trail and engage more with local culture on the island. You can hire a kayak and journey through the mangrove forests, which offer a glimpse into these crucial coastal ecosystems. After a late lunch at Salak Kok, there’s time to head back to the west coast before sunset.
Ethical Elephant Encounters
Given the island’s name, it’s not surprising that elephant experiences are popular on Koh Chang. Thankfully, most operations have moved away from riding toward more ethical interaction. Ban Kwan Chang Elephant Sanctuary in the island’s northwest allows visitors to feed, bathe, and observe rescued elephants in a more natural setting.
As with any animal tourism in Thailand, it’s worth researching facilities carefully and choosing those that prioritise animal welfare over entertainment. The sad story of a young tourist recently killed in Thailand while washing an elephant means you may want to think twice before engaging with these animals.
Cultural Experiences
While not as rich in cultural sites as northern Thailand, Koh Chang offers opportunities to experience local life, particularly in the fishing villages on the east and south coasts. Bang Bao, despite its increased tourism, still functions as a working port where you can watch fishermen bringing in the day’s catch.
Several cooking schools on the island offer courses in Thai cuisine, using fresh local ingredients to create classic dishes. I spent a delightful afternoon at Kati Culinary, learning to balance the complex flavours that make Thai food so distinctive and returning home with skills far more valuable than any souvenir.
Bang Bao fishing village offers a glimpse into traditional island life with houses built on stilts over the water.
Dining: From Seafood Shacks to Fine Cuisine
Koh Chang’s dining scene has evolved significantly, now offering everything from authentic local seafood to international cuisine.
For the freshest seafood in the most authentic setting, head to Salak Kok on the island’s east coast. This fishing village built on stilts over the water features simple restaurants where your lunch might have been swimming just hours earlier. The “Catch of the Day” is quite literally that, with red snapper, sea bass, tiger prawns, and blue crab appearing on tables in a variety of traditional Thai preparations.
In the more developed west coast areas, you’ll find international options alongside Thai cuisine. Barrio Bonito in Kai Bae serves surprisingly authentic Mexican food—a welcome break when your palate needs a rest from Thai spices. Their homemade margaritas and freshly prepared guacamole make for a perfect sunset accompaniment.
Resort restaurants generally offer high-quality dining, with Dinso Resort & Villas restaurants deserving special mention for their extensive wine lists and blend of Thai and international cuisine. Their beachfront dinner setting is particularly romantic, with tables arranged on the sand and illuminated by torchlight.
For casual dining with a view, Pilot Bar on Klong Prao Beach offers pizzas in a laid-back atmosphere. It’s an ideal spot to linger over lunch while gazing at the beach or to enjoy a cocktail as the sun sets.
During my visits, I’ve made it a point to seek out local specialities, particularly the seafood dishes unique to Thailand’s eastern provinces. The crab curry with Chamuang leaves (a culinary speciality of Trat province) is not to be missed, offering a unique flavour profile you simply won’t find elsewhere.
Nearby Island Excursions
While Koh Chang offers plenty to keep visitors entertained, the surrounding islands of the marine park provide excellent day trip opportunities.
Koh Wai, just south of Koh Chang, features picture-perfect beaches and exceptionally clear water for snorkelling. With no cars, roads, or significant development, it offers a glimpse of what Thailand’s islands were like decades ago.
Further south, Koh Mak is a flat, peaceful island with beautiful beaches and a focus on sustainable, low-impact tourism. The absence of mountainous terrain makes it easier to explore by bicycle, providing a different experience from Koh Chang.
Koh Kood (sometimes spelled Koh Kut) is the second-largest island in the group and arguably the most beautiful. Despite recent development, it maintains a pristine quality with empty beaches, clear water, and several impressive waterfalls in its interior.
Day trips to these islands can be arranged through tour operators on Koh Chang, with boats departing primarily from Bang Bao pier. For those with more time, each island offers accommodation options, though generally with fewer facilities than Koh Chang.
Practical Travel Tips
Having visited Koh Chang in different seasons, I’ve gathered some practical advice that might enhance your experience:
- Timing your visit: The high season runs from November to February, when the weather is dry and relatively cool. March to April sees higher temperatures but remains dry. The rainy season from May to October brings lush landscapes but also the possibility of storms and rough seas, with some businesses closing during the wettest months.
- Money matters: While major beaches have ATMs and some establishments accept credit cards, it’s wise to carry cash, especially when venturing to less developed areas or smaller restaurants.
- Health precautions: Bring plenty of local mosquito repellent, particularly if staying near the jungle or during the rainy season. Basic medical facilities exist on the island, but anything serious requires evacuation to the mainland.
- Safety considerations: Be extremely cautious when swimming during the rainy season, as currents can be strong. If renting a motorbike, wear a helmet and exercise extreme caution on the steep mountain roads, particularly in wet conditions.
- Cultural respect: While Koh Chang is accustomed to tourists, it’s still appreciated when visitors dress modestly when away from the beach, particularly when visiting any religious sites.
- Environmental awareness: Much of Koh Chang is protected national park. Take litter with you when visiting natural sites, avoid touching or collecting marine life while snorkelling, and consider using reef-safe sunscreen to protect the fragile coral ecosystems.
Final Thoughts: The Elephant in Thailand’s Island Room
Koh Chang occupies a sweet spot in Thailand’s island spectrum—developed enough to offer comfort and convenience, yet still wild enough to provide authentic experiences and natural beauty. As some Thai islands have succumbed to over-development, Koh Chang’s national park status has helped preserve its essential character.
What strikes me most about returning to Koh Chang after several years—and particularly post-pandemic—is how it seems to have found its stride without sacrificing its soul. The strategic relocation of nightlife to Kai Bae has created a more coherent entertainment district while allowing other areas to maintain their distinct personalities. Businesses appear to be thriving in a way I haven’t witnessed before in my decade of visits to the island.
Yet despite this newfound prosperity, you can still sip a perfectly crafted cocktail in a luxury resort, then turn your head to see a hornbill flying across a backdrop of ancient rainforest. This juxtaposition of comfort and wilderness creates a destination that satisfies both the desire for relaxation and the hunger for authentic experiences.
For travellers willing to venture beyond Thailand’s more famous destinations, Koh Chang offers rich rewards—pristine beaches without the overwhelming crowds, luxury without the exorbitant price tag, and natural beauty that still has the power to astonish. In a country where paradise sometimes seems in danger of being loved to death, this elephant-shaped island remains a sanctuary of sustainable splendour.
If my recent visit is any indication, Koh Chang has emerged from the pandemic stronger than ever, finally getting the recognition it deserves while maintaining the tranquil, natural character that made it special in the first place. That delicate balance is precarious, but for now at least, Thailand’s “Elephant Island” continues to offer one of the most rewarding island experiences in Southeast Asia.
