The road less travelled leads to Bali’s most extraordinary secret
I’ll confess something that might surprise you: after years of exploring Southeast Asia, I’d almost written off Bali entirely. The Instagram hordes descending on Tegallalang Rice Terraces, the traffic chaos choking Canggu’s once-pristine beach roads, the yoga retreats charging £200 ($250) a night for what amounts to overpriced dormitory living, what appears at first glance as an overcrowded Aussie party town. It felt like paradise had been packaged, processed, and sold to the highest bidder.
Then I discovered West Bali.
Standing on a seemingly endless stretch of volcanic sand at Yeh Leh Beach, watching Java’s distant volcanic peaks shimmer across the Bali Strait on the western horizon while not another soul disturbed the view, I realised I’d been exploring the wrong Bali entirely.
The beauty of Yeh Leh Beach lies not just in its solitude, but in its position as Bali’s westernmost frontier. Here, the island’s rugged coastline faces Java across the narrow strait, offering glimpses of that larger island’s volcanic spine on clear days. Behind you to the east, Mount Batukaru and the central highlands create a dramatic backdrop, while ahead lies nothing but ocean and the promise of Java’s ancient landscapes.
This isn’t the Bali of crowded temple queues and infinity pool selfies. This is Bali as it was meant to be experienced – raw, authentic, and utterly yours to discover.
The Last Frontier Awakens
West Bali has always existed in the shadow of its more famous siblings. While South Bali succumbed to development and Ubud transformed into a spiritual shopping mall, the western reaches remained gloriously forgotten. Here, vast uninhabited jungles still sprawl across volcanic slopes, and you can walk for hours along coconut-fringed beaches without encountering a single sun lounger, let alone a beach club blasting electronic music.
The journey west from Denpasar is itself a revelation. Skip the sterile highway and take the winding road through traditional villages and emerald paddies. After ninety minutes, the landscape opens into the seemingly endless vistas near Soka Beach – your first glimpse of what Bali looked like before the boom. This is where West Bali begins, and where mass tourism, mercifully, ends.
Getting there: The coastal loop from Ngurah Rai Airport around West Bali’s coastline and over the volcanic peaks can be completed in eight hours, but you’d be mad to rush it. Allow at least three days to properly absorb this region’s unique vibe.
Hidden Gems That Redefine Luxury
The Menjangan: Safari Meets Sanctuary
Forget everything you think you know about Balinese wildlife experiences. At The Menjangan eco-resort, luxury doesn’t mean marble lobbies and overpriced spa treatments – it means waking to the sight of wild sambar deer browsing on pristine beaches directly outside your suite. This isn’t some contrived “wildlife experience” where animals are herded for tourists. These magnificent creatures roam completely free through the resort’s grounds, often continuing their morning feed right onto the shoreline.
Wild sambar deer grazing on the beach at The Menjangan resort
The forest surrounding the resort remains largely unexplored jungle, home to rare black langurs, giant squirrels the size of house cats, and over 160 bird species. During my morning birdwatching tour with a local guide, we spotted wild Bali starlings – one of the world’s most endangered birds – feeding in the mangroves. There are perhaps 100 of these stunning white birds left in the wild, and seeing them here felt like witnessing a miracle.
The resort’s timber jungle watchtower offers panoramic views toward jungle-clad hills where flying foxes emerge at dusk in biblical clouds, while hornbills – yes, actual hornbills – glide between the canopy. It’s the kind of authentic wildlife encounter that makes those elephant rides in Ubud seem rather tragic by comparison.
Rates: From £280 ($350) per night for a beachfront suite, including guided nature walks and boat transfers to Menjangan Island.
Menjangan Island: Diving Paradise Without the Crowds
Just fifteen minutes by boat from the mainland lies tiny Menjangan Island – less than three kilometres long but home to Bali’s finest diving and snorkelling. While the Instagram masses and Lonely Planet disciples, seeking solitude by the coach load, queue at overcrowded Nusa Penida, those in the know slip away to these pristine reefs where colourful coral gardens and dramatic drop-offs remain blissfully undisturbed.
The visibility here is exceptional – often exceeding 30 metres – and the marine life rivals anywhere in Southeast Asia. I encountered reef sharks, massive Napoleon wrasse, and sea turtles gliding through coral formations that seemed almost artificially perfect. The best part? During my three dives, I didn’t see another tourist underwater.
Access is wonderfully straightforward: purchase permits, hire equipment and a guide, and charter a boat from Labuhan Lalang pier. For those preferring to snorkel directly from shore, Pemuteran town offers spectacular reefs within metres of the beach – both man-made coral gardens and pristine natural formations.
Diving costs: From £35 ($44) for two tank dives including equipment and boat transfers.
Cultural Encounters That Tourist Guides Miss
Walking With Pink Buffalo in Pekutatan
In an age where authentic cultural experiences are increasingly rare, farmer Pak Sudana has created something genuinely extraordinary. His Buffalo Walks offer the chance to herd Bali’s precious pink buffalo along pristine beaches – these magnificent beasts are part voice-controlled, part sheer bovine personality.
Only in West Bali can you still witness traditional Balinese farming as it’s been practiced for centuries. Sudana’s conservation initiative represents an alternative to selling these precious animals for farming, sacrifices, or the brutal sport of makepung (West Balinese buffalo chariot racing). With his son Komang translating, Sudana explains the intricate rice farming systems that have sustained this region for millennia.
Walking these gentle giants along Pekutatan’s endless black sand beach while learning about sustainable agriculture felt like stepping back several centuries – in the very best way. It’s tourism that actually benefits local communities rather than exploiting them.
Experience cost: £20 ($25) per person for a two-hour buffalo walk including traditional farming demonstration.
The World’s Most Vibrant Fishing Fleet
Hidden at Perancak inlet, just south of sleepy Negara, lies what might be the world’s most spectacular fishing fleet. Over 100 rainbow-hued boats create a kaleidoscope of colour against the muddy estuary waters – each vessel hand-painted in brilliant blues, reds, and golds that would make a festival parade seem subdued.
Vibrant rainbow-coloured fishing boats at Perancak inlet with traditional fishermen preparing nets
What makes this sight even more remarkable is its complete absence from tourist itineraries. During my visit, I was literally the only non-local present. When moored, the boats sit in pairs – referred to as “husband and wife” – and when one is decommissioned, the other becomes a “widow.” It’s a touching piece of maritime tradition that speaks to the deep cultural connections these communities maintain with the sea.
A small offering to the warung owner on the waterside will secure a boatman happy to give you a closer look at these floating artworks. The best light comes just before sunset when the painted hulls glow like stained glass windows.
Adventures Beyond the Beaten Path
Surfing Without the Circus
West Bali’s south-facing coastline offers endless kilometres of deserted beach breaks, plus several world-class spots that draw weekend crowds only when the surf is blown out further east. Balian remains popular as a river-mouth break, while Medewi’s famous left-hand point break attracts experienced surfers despite (or perhaps because of) its razor-sharp rocks.
For beginners or those seeking more forgiving conditions, nearby Yeh Sumbul has gained popularity thanks to sandbanks and easily rideable waves. But if you’re truly craving solitude, Pekutatan’s Yeh Leh Beach stretches over 12 kilometres with waves that remain almost completely unsurfed.
The beauty of surfing here isn’t just the uncrowded breaks – it’s the complete absence of surf school circus, overpriced board rentals, and beachfront bars blasting techno at dawn. This is surfing as pure sport, not Instagram performance.
Highland Adventures Through Ancient Forests
The highland road from Pekutatan to the north coast ranks among Indonesia’s most breathtaking drives, particularly in the hour around dawn when mist rises from jungle valleys like primordial ghosts. The route’s highlight is Bunut Bolong – an ancient fig tree that has grown directly over the road, creating a tunnel large enough for trucks to drive through.
The sacred Bunut Bolong tree tunnel
Many local drivers stop here to pay homage to the spirits said to inhabit this giant. There’s a simple warung with viewing platform overlooking rainforest that stretches westward for over 40 kilometres – an almost impenetrable green carpet that puts Ubud’s cultivated jungle into perspective.
The onward drive over highland ridges to the north coast creates one of Bali’s most memorable experiences. On clear mornings, you’ll catch glimpses of Java’s volcanic peaks across the strait, while the road winds through villages where traditional life continues largely unchanged.
Temples Without Tour Buses
Rambut Siwi: Sunset Sanctuary
While sunset crowds gather like pilgrims at Uluwatu and Tanah Lot, Rambut Siwi Temple offers equal drama with complete solitude. This sea temple perches on cliffs overlooking wild coastline where waves crash against volcanic rocks in spectacular displays of nature’s power.
The temple’s caretaker, always present with knowledge and stories, will explain the complexities of Balinese temple architecture for a small tip. Unlike its famous cousins, Rambut Siwi retains its spiritual atmosphere – you can actually hear the chanting and feel the ceremony’s power without battling selfie sticks and tour group chatter.
Climbing down to the beach reveals a series of shrine grottos carved into cliff faces – atmospheric and slightly mysterious spots where local offerings blend with natural beauty.
Goa Tirta Sunia: Monkeys by the Sea
On the north coast near Pemuteran, Goa Tirta Sunia Temple offers one of Bali’s most unusual experiences – watching monkeys cool themselves with sea water on hot afternoons. This temple somehow escaped the tourist trail despite its accessible location and photogenic setting.
The temple complex itself showcases classic Balinese architecture without restoration for Instagram appeal. Prayer flags flutter in ocean breezes while traditional ceremonies continue largely unobserved by foreign visitors.
Sustainable Luxury at West Bali’s Finest
Sumberkima Hill Retreat: Choose Your Adventure
Northwest Bali’s rugged beauty finds perfect expression at Sumberkima Hill Retreat. Nestled between mountains and sea, this sprawling resort operates almost as a destination unto itself. With nearly 60 villa types, two swimming pools, a spa, three restaurants, and an organic farm on the premises, it caters to every travel style without compromising its environmental commitment.
Couples gravitate toward the one-bedroom Villa Noah or Villa Murai – sophisticated retreats with private pools overlooking turquoise waters. Budget-conscious travellers appreciate the cabin-style Luwih accommodations starting from £51 ($64) per night. The resort sits near West Bali National Park, making it an ideal base for exploring Menjangan Island’s diving and the region’s unspoiled beaches.
Rates: From £51 ($64) for cabin accommodation to £180 ($225) for luxury villas with private pools.
Lost Lindenberg: Contemporary Design Meets Raw Nature
Hidden on Bali’s untamed black sand coastline, Lost – The Lindenberg represents contemporary luxury’s new direction. These treehouse-style rooms provide immersive jungle and ocean views while maintaining sophisticated design that would feel at home in a Manhattan gallery.
The resort deliberately contrasts pop art and neon installations against lush tropical surroundings – a bold design choice that somehow enhances rather than detracts from the natural setting. The plant-based restaurant encourages communal dining and genuine human connection, while vintage VW campers ferry guests to discover hidden waterfalls and scenic coves.
For surf enthusiasts, the nearby Medewi Surf Point offers consistent waves without Canggu’s chaos. There is luxury accommodation to be found for travellers who appreciate both comfort and authenticity.
Practical Considerations for the Discerning Traveller
Best Time to Visit: May through September offers the driest conditions, though West Bali’s drier climate makes it pleasant year-round. Even during wet season, rains tend to be short and sharp.
Getting Around: A rental scooter costs from £4 ($5) daily, though hiring a local driver for £35 ($44) per day provides cultural insights and navigational expertise. The coastal roads are excellent, though mountain routes require confidence and good brakes.
Where to Stay: Allow at least three nights to properly explore the region. The Menjangan offers ultimate luxury and wildlife experiences, while Sumberkima Hill caters to various budgets. Pemuteran provides excellent mid-range options with easy beach and reef access.
Cultural Etiquette: West Bali remains traditionally conservative. Dress modestly when visiting temples, remove shoes before entering homes, and always ask permission before photographing people or religious ceremonies.
The Future of West Bali
West Bali’s isolation won’t last forever. Indonesia’s infrastructure development and Bali’s land pressures suggest this hidden paradise will eventually face the same challenges that transformed the south. Already, whispers of resort developments and improved road access hint at changes ahead.
For now, though, West Bali offers what the rest of the island has largely lost – the chance to experience Bali as it was meant to be. Here, you can still walk pristine beaches in complete solitude, encounter wildlife in genuinely natural settings, and interact with communities whose traditions remain intact.
This isn’t Bali as an exotic backdrop for Instagram stories. This is Bali as living, breathing paradise where every sunrise reveals something extraordinary, every conversation offers genuine cultural exchange, and every meal tastes of place rather than tourist expectation.
The road west from Denpasar doesn’t just lead to different beaches – it leads to a completely different way of experiencing one of the world’s most beautiful islands. In an age where authentic travel grows increasingly rare, West Bali reminds us why we fell in love with exploration in the first place.
Getting There: Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS) serves Bali with direct flights from London (£650-£850/$815-$1,065), Sydney, and major Asian cities. Private airport transfers to West Bali cost £45-£60 ($56-$75) and take 2-3 hours depending on destination.
Visa Requirements: British, EU, Australian, and US citizens receive visa-on-arrival for £25 ($35) allowing 30-day stays with one extension possible.
*all prices correct at time of publication
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