Your insider guide to Southeast Asia
Around The Region
Bangkok in May has a quieter quality to it. The crowds have thinned, the streets feel like they belong to the city again, and the afternoon downpours have become part of the daily rhythm. It is, for those of us who live here, one of the better times to be around. The rest of the region is in a similar mood – quieter, slower, and considerably easier to navigate than it was three months ago. Which makes this, arguably, one of the better times to travel if you know where to look.
Off the coast of Krabi, a new resort has just opened on Laem Tong Beach – one of the few stretches of Phi Phi Island that has stayed beautiful precisely because reaching it requires a boat and a degree of intention. Boat-only access, a national park setting, and a design rooted in the traditions of the indigenous Urak Lawoi community make it one of the more considered openings the region has seen this year.
Vietnam, meanwhile, is heading for its busiest summer on record. We have some thoughts on where to go instead of the obvious choices. And on 4 June, the Michelin Guide returns for its fourth Vietnam edition – timed, rather neatly, with the 100th anniversary of the Michelin Star. For anyone planning Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, or Da Nang this summer, the new list will be worth having.
There is also a story from Sumatra that deserves attention, even if it is not an easy one. Indonesia’s plan to rezone Way Kambas National Park raises hard questions about what conservation actually means when the budget runs out. We have covered it fairly, but we have not softened it.
This Week in Southeast Asia
The Best New Resort in Thailand Right Now Is Accessible Only by Boat
OUTRIGGER Phi Phi Island Resort sits on Laem Tong Beach within a protected national park – accessible only by speedboat from Phuket. Photo credit:
Koh Phi Phi Don has spent years as a cautionary tale about what happens when a beautiful island is loved without limit. Laem Tong Beach, on the island’s northern tip, has largely escaped that story. It sits within the protected boundaries of Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park, reachable only by speedboat – which means the crowds that pack Tonsai Bay simply never arrive. OUTRIGGER Phi Phi Island Resort opened here on 4 May 2026, on the site of the much-loved former Zeavola Resort, with 63 suites and villas designed around the Thai concept of “Nit Thra” – the soul of rest. Handcrafted furnishings and woven motifs reflect the heritage of the Urak Lawoi sea community, the indigenous people who have called these islands home for centuries. Each guest arrives by boat and is welcomed with a handcrafted bead bracelet – a Urak Lawoi tradition, not a hotel amenity. The resort’s Mala Kitchen serves Southern Thai cuisine guided by “Samrub Thai,” the philosophy of balance in taste, texture, and meaning. PADI-certified diving reaches coral formations where sea turtles, manta rays, and reef sharks are regular sightings. A spa, two pools, cooking classes, longtail boat picnics through the mangrove channels, and a kids’ club complete a property that works equally well for couples and families. It is, in short, the kind of opening that reminds you why this corner of Thailand became famous – and why Laem Tong, specifically, still deserves to be.
Vietnam’s Most Popular Destinations Are Heading for a Record Summer – Here’s What That Means for You
Vietnam is tracking toward its busiest summer in recorded history. The practical implication, if you are planning a trip in the next few months, is straightforward: the places everyone already knows about – Ha Long Bay, Hoi An’s Old Town, Phu Quoc – are going to be noticeably more crowded than usual, and accommodation at well-regarded properties will book out early. The smarter move, as it has been for a while, is to think one step sideways. Da Nang makes a better base than Hoi An for anyone who wants easy access to the old town without sleeping inside its noise. Ninh Binh remains drastically underrated relative to Ha Long and is an hour and a half from Hanoi. Phu Yen – between Da Nang and Nha Trang, with a coastline that would headline any European travel magazine if it were in Portugal – is barely on the international radar. The principle is the same one we wrote about in Palawan: the best version of a destination is usually one step off the path everyone else is walking.
Vietnam’s Michelin Guide Returns on 4 June – and This Edition Is Worth Paying Attention To
The fourth edition of the Michelin Guide Vietnam will be revealed at a ceremony in Ho Chi Minh City on 4 June, covering restaurants across Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Da Nang. This year’s edition carries extra significance – it coincides with the 100th anniversary of the Michelin Star itself, which was first awarded in 1926. Vietnam’s dining scene has moved quickly since the guide first arrived. Hanoi’s Old Quarter has been producing world-class food for generations without needing anyone to tell it so; what the guide has done is make that legible to a wider international audience and, inevitably, driven up both quality and competition at the higher end. If you are heading to any of the three cities this summer, the new list – available via the Michelin Guide app from 4 June – is a genuinely useful tool for cutting through the noise. For Da Nang travellers especially, it pairs neatly with the fireworks festival running across the same weeks.
Planning Cambodia This Summer? Angkor Is About to Get Busier
Cambodia is launching a visa-free window for Chinese nationals from mid-June through mid-October, a move designed to pull back one of the region’s highest-spending visitor markets after years of slow recovery. For travellers already planning Cambodia this summer, the timing is worth knowing about. Angkor Wat and the wider Siem Reap temple complex will see a significant uplift in visitor numbers from late June onwards, and the shoulder period before that – specifically the weeks of 15 to 30 May, and early June – offers noticeably better conditions for anyone who wants the temples at a pace that actually allows you to look at them. If your Cambodia trip is still flexible, bring it forward. If you’re locked into July or August, get to Angkor before 9am and focus on the lesser-visited complexes: Banteay Srei, Beng Mealea, and the Ta Som circuit all reward the same quality of attention with a fraction of the crowd.
Indonesia Plans to Halve the Protected Core of One of Sumatra’s Most Critical Wildlife Sanctuaries
Way Kambas is one of the last strongholds for critically endangered Sumatran elephants, tigers, and rhinos. Plans to rezone half its protected core area have drawn sharp criticism from conservation scientists.
The Indonesian government wants to transform Way Kambas National Park in Lampung, Sumatra from what one minister described as a “cost centre” into a “profit centre.” The proposal, reported by Mongabay, would halve the park’s strictly protected core from 60,000 to around 27,000 hectares, opening the remainder to carbon trading and high-end tourism – with some projections citing up to $14,000 per night for luxury stays within the newly accessible zones. Way Kambas is home to critically endangered Sumatran elephants, tigers, and rhinos. Conservation scientists have been blunt in response: fragmenting the core habitat risks worsening human-wildlife conflict and undermining the very ecosystems the revenue is meant to protect. “Conservation will only be able to be accessed by the wealthy,” one leading environmental group warned. The Indonesian government has framed this as a funding solution for chronically underfunded national parks. The debate is genuine and unresolved – but any traveller considering Indonesian wildlife experiences should watch how it plays out, because the precedent it sets will matter well beyond Sumatra.
What’s On
This Week
BANGKOK ART WALK 2026 – Bangkok, Thailand | Running now through 21 June 2026
Bangkok’s historic Chakrapong Road and Lan Luang neighbourhoods have been turned into an open-air creative corridor for eight weeks, with live music, contemporary art, craft markets, independent fashion and community projects running across both streets. Entry to most outdoor events is free; some workshops require advance booking. Best experienced on foot in the late afternoon when the temperature drops and the atmosphere builds. Easily reached via Chao Phraya river boat to Phra Arthit Pier. Full programme at bangkokartcity.org
DA NANG FOOD TOUR FESTIVAL 2026 – Da Nang, Vietnam | 20-24 May 2026
More than 100 food booths and 70 street-food stalls take over Bien Dong Park and Tam Thanh beach square for five days of central Vietnamese cuisine – anchored by a street parade along Pham Van Dong beach on the 20th recreating Da Nang’s historic food-street atmosphere, and a Beer Fest Night and concert series running through the week. If you’re in central Vietnam this month, this is the week to be in Da Nang rather than Hoi An.
Coming Up
SAMUI REGATTA 2026 – Koh Samui, Thailand | 23-30 May 2026
The 23rd edition of Asia’s longest-running international keelboat regatta returns to Chaweng Beach, with crews from across Europe, Australia, Singapore, and Hong Kong competing in tactical races across the Gulf of Thailand. Spectating from the beach is free and genuinely worth the trip; the daily prize-givings and closing party are open to all. Registration and race notice at samuiregatta.com
DA NANG INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS FESTIVAL (DIFF 2026) – Da Nang, Vietnam | 30 May – 11 July 2026
Ten teams from nine countries compete across six Saturday nights above the Han River, with the opening night on 30 May pitting Vietnam against China under the theme “Nature.” AR effects, laser shows, and synchronised music accompany each display. The schedule spread across six weeks offers flexibility on dates – and the weeks between show nights are a good time to visit Da Nang when the city is buzzing but not overwhelmed. Tickets and full schedule at Da Nang’s official tourism portal
RAINFOREST WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL (RWMF 2026) – Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia | 26-28 June 2026
The 29th edition of one of Southeast Asia’s most distinctive festivals takes place at the Sarawak Cultural Village beneath Mount Santubong – three days of daytime instrument workshops and evening main-stage concerts, with 20-plus acts from 13 countries including headliners Dato’ M. Nasir and The Commodores. This year adds a BIMP-EAGA regional gastronomy showcase. Three-day passes from MYR635 (approx. £110 / US$140) at rwmf.net
Worth Reading
With Vietnam heading toward a record summer and Da Nang’s culinary scene about to get its Michelin moment, this is a good week to revisit our coral reef piece – which looks at Thailand’s underwater conservation work and what it means for divers planning the Andaman coast. It connects directly to any conversation about responsible coastal travel in the region this summer.
Thailand Is Freezing Its Coral Reefs. Here’s Why That Should Matter to Every Diver in Southeast Asia
That’s your week from Southeast Asia. If you’ve been somewhere worth talking about – or spotted something we should know – we’re easy to find.
